by Laura
Why is it that when summer squash are ready to harvest, they’re all ready at once? I love squash, but how much can one person take? In last week’s CSA delivery, we got zillions of zucchini, scads of spaghetti squash, and crates of crooknecks. The usual sauté-with-garlic route would not suffice for so much of the Cucurbita pepo family.
I downloaded the Epicurious app for the iPhone and started narrowing down my search. I settled on this recipe for Cassolita (Winter Squash w/Caramelized Onions), a Moroccan/Sephardic/Andalusian dish that sounded like something Justin would dig.
I substituted the summer squash for the winter, and it was FAN-FLIPPING-TASTIC, although I can imagine it would be even better with sweeter/creamier winter squash varieties. I served it on a bed of couscous, and i topped it with fresh mint that I toasted in the toaster oven. I highly recommend it – the cinnamon raisins and onions were divine, it made great use of the squash, and it happens to be vegan, if you’re concerned about such things (and if you’re not, it’s still a beautiful side dish). I also recommend the Epicurious iPhone app – it was much easier to carry the recipe with me to my mom’s (where I cooked it) and to look at my phone rather than putting a laptop on the kitchen counter.
We’ve also gotten beets from the CSA more than once, and while we haven’t gotten bushels of beets, when you’re not a beet fan, any beet is one too many. As I previously mentioned, I made a chocolate cake using the latest receipt of beets, and if you didn’t know there were beets, you’d be hard pressed to guess they were hiding out in there. That earthy essence that’s overwhelming in a bite of a beet becomes a dark complement to the cocoa in this cake. The cake was also so moist that it didn’t need any frosting; if I wanted to make it fancy, I might drizzle a little powdered sugar glaze on it next time. Better yet, I’d like to try it with a little warm plum or rhubarb compote spooned over a slice. Writing this down is actually making me hope for beets in tomorrow’s CSA basket. Yikes.
Dark Secret Chocolate Cake
(adapted from Simply in Season)
1 cup each beets, carrots, and apples (peeled and chopped)
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup neutral oil
1/2 cup plain yogurt
3 eggs
1/2 cup cocoa
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups white flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup chocolate chips
1. Cover beets, carrots and apples with water in a saucepan and boil until soft. Drain and set aside to cool (about an hour).
2. Place cooked beets, carrots and apples in a blender and puree until smooth. Add a tablespoon or two of water, if needed. Set aside.
3. Beat sugar, oil, yogurt and eggs with an electric mixer for two minutes. Add the cocoa, vanilla, and puree, and beat for another two minutes.
4. In a separate bowl, sift together the flours, baking soda, salt and cinnamon. Using a big spatula or wooden spoon, gently fold the flour mixture into the wet mixture, just until blended.
5. Pour half the batter into a well-greased bundt pan. Sprinkle the chocolate chips evenly over the batter, then add the other half of the batter. Bake at 350 degrees for about 50 minutes, or until a knife inserted comes out clean. Let cool, then slide out of the pan and devour.
It makes two, hearty, meal-sized servings; to serve four, as a starter, boil the potatoes and the corn separately, and puree the potatoes with 1/4 c. of the milk before returning to the pan in Step 3. We ate this soup with heirloom tomatoes in balsamic syrup on the side and a little toasted sourdough bread to sop up everything.
Fideo is the Spanish word for noodle, but Fideo Soup is something special, dark and complex, miles away from the delicious and classic but straightforward Chicken Noodle Soup. In Barcelona, I ate a bowl of Fideo loaded with seafood that drove me nuts trying to figure out what made it so distinctive. It turns out that the secret to Fideo Soup is browning the noodles before adding the stock – so simple yet so transformational! Traditional Fideo Soup is made with a vermicelli-ish noodle, broken into short pieces, plus chicken broth and tomatoes, but I adapted it for vegematarians and for simplicity and to use the explosion of corn in my fridge and the alphabet-shaped macaroni Milo voluntarily ate last week. Naturally, Milo refused to eat it, but Justin proclaimed it “A Number 1″ (a phrase which originated in the grading of sea vessels, in case you were wondering, like I was).
I practically never bake pies. I always make the excuse that I don’t have time to chill pie crust, but it turns out that skipping that step isn’t fatal. Another time-cutter? Forget painstakingly rolling out the crust. I threw this pie together while my soup simmered and baked it while we ate dinner. It’s not pretty, but it tasted just as good, frankly, as when I’ve followed the classic “rustic tart” process.
When we finally sat down, the trauma did seem at least a little worthwhile. The chicken tasted like the chicken I remember eating at the Blue Gate (an Amish restaurant in Sarasota, Florida, that isn’t there anymore, alas) when I was a kid, and nothing like the little roasted chickens I occasionally get from the grocery store deli, which is to say, it actually tasted chickeny. The little bits of skin that survived were fabulously crispy, and I figured if there was ever a time to indulge in chicken skin, this was it. We also had wheat rolls (my best-tasting homemade bread output to date, if I do say so myself) and fresh CSA green beans with sliced almonds and Herbes de Provence. I’m sure Alice would have been disappointed with my roasted vegetables, which were actually not very roasted but rather swimming in chicken juices and lots of olive oil; to be fair, I overcompensated for the lack of skin coverage with more olive oil than was called for, a mistake I won’t make again – or rather, wouldn’t make,
if I ever put myself through a whole chicken again, which I will not. I will enjoy every piece of the leftovers, and be grateful for the nice woman who raised such nice chickens, but after I’m done with it, I won’t need to eat chicken again for a long, long time.
I love walking into the West Side Market and being overwhelmed by the smells of ripe, in-season fruits. Even my ginormous supermarket is emitting genuine fruit fumes when the glass doors slide open. And when
You could use just about any combination of ripe berries and stone fruits, and you could vary the sugar to your taste, but this proportion of sugar to cinnamon yields a spicy, kinda grown-up sauce. I served it over cranberry walnut French toast with a drizzle of yogurt, which looked a mess but tasted fabulous.
I ate these greens on top of mashed potatoes made from new red potatoes – I don’t know why braised greens are so good with mashed potatoes, but they are. Next time, I may try this recipe tossed with Shanghai noodles and those mushrooms labeled something that looks like “humongous” in the Asian market. Serves 2 as a vegetarian entrée (as previously described) or 4 as a side.
I sliced a yellow squash from the CSA basket and sauteed it with rosemary in the butter and garlic leftover from the bread bath – not the usual bruschetta topping, but surprisingly good.


Just because I was not here to avail myself of the CSA basket last week in
no way suggests that I did not eat well. I did cook and bake, with Johnny’s able assistance. He was the best at preparing our fruit for snacking; no apples were ever more vigorously scrubbed.
Cupcake baking was an adventure, particularly when the batter and the frosting and the sprinkles were so tasty! They were delicious even when baked and frosted.




